Ten minutes out of town, we found the dirt road that goes up to Storm Lake. We had been there before, shortly after moving to Anaconda, Montana. The road was hard on the car, but we couldn’t resist going. This time we would hike up to the tundra and stay the night. My wife Ana had never been camping above the treeline.

There were a couple cars, but nobody in sight. The lake was sparkling in the sunlight, and the mountains of the Anaconda-Pintler range rose up all around it. It was quiet and cool here at 8,000 feet. We put on our packs and started up the trail. Twenty minutes later we were past the lake, and the trail steepened.

Hiking With Guns In Montana

After an hour of zig-zagging up the mountain we met another hiker. We talked briefly, and noticed the handgun on his belt. This is common in Montana. We’ve seen guns on the hiking trails and in the bars, and the bank tellers don’t even blink when customers walk in wearing guns - they probably have their own.

We never did ask this hiker why he had one, and didn’t find out until later that there are grizzlies in the area at times, something some “experts,” have denied. At least we had our freon horn to blast if we met a bear, but then maybe that would just get the bear angry.

The trees got smaller as we climbed, and ended just before Storm Lake Pass. Ana waited patiently at the pass while I ran the five minutes - which became twenty - up to the peak of Mount Tiny, about 10,000 feet high. Small, compared to some of the surrounding mountains, but it seemed almost rude to give a beautiful mountain a name like that.

Later, past goat meadow, Ana waited again while I scrambled up the rocks to the top of Kurt Peak (also about 10,000 feet). I couldn’t find the route where I came up, so I went back up, then down the west side and finally back north to the grassy slope where Ana was waiting.

Maybe it was foolish to leave Ana alone. Just three months later, two boys were attacked by a mountain lion on the hill just behind the town of Anaconda. The fourteen-year-old fired his gun to scare it off. Both boys were probably larger than my gunless wife. Fortunately, we didn’t meet any cougars or bears on this hike, but Ana had other things to worry about.

Camping With Aliens In Montana

“I hear voices,” she told me in the tent that night. I assured her there was nobody within ten miles of us, and then she was worried about aliens landing in the meadow. Well, it would make a good landing site. The wind threatened to shred the tent all night, sounding like the whispers or screams of ghosts - or aliens. By morning the wind relented, but it was well below freezing - time to get Ana home.

Despite the cold she hates so much, Ana couldn’t help stopping to take in the view as we crossed the high meadows on our way home. Mountains, grey with rock, green with grass and flowers, and painted with white patches of snow, were everywhere. Lakes sat in valleys below, unvisited for weeks at a time. We’ll be back there again, but perhaps with bear spray and alien repellant.

Notes:

Forty-five miles of the Continental Divide Trail pass through the Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness. Other trails in the area are never heavily used. You can easily find mountains and whole valleys where you’ll be the only human residents for as long as you stay.

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Conversion van camping doesn’t give you the luxury of life in an RV, nor the discomfort of sleeping in a tent. It can be tough to safely heat a van at night, but it’s cheap compared to an RV, and you can go places they cannot. We spent more than 25 nights sleeping in our conversion van last year.

Life In A Conversion Van

Make your van into something that’s useable for you, especially if it’s going to be your residence for days or weeks at a time. For my wife and I, this meant having space to move around. We took out the two middle seats which, I convinced Ana, would be good armchairs for the living room. Then we had enough space for dressing or cooking. The bench-seat in back folds out into a comfortable bed, so we were all set for camping.

When traveling, you need a system of organization to keep your space inside the van livable. After our first long trip, we noticed the many things we never used. We got more efficient after that. We’re also able to keep the space open, despite carrying many things, by using plastic storage tubs you can buy almost anywhere. They stack well, and if you need more room at night, you can put them on the roof. They’re rainproof with the lids snapped on.

Heating A Conversion Van

Camping in a van can be cold at times, as it was for us in the deserts of Arizona last winter. We started the van and cranked up the heater once in a while, but only for brief periods. The danger of carbon monoxide poisoning is just too great to leave the car running while you are sleeping.

We also cooked to heat up the van. Our propane camp stove burned very clean. Any time it was cold, it was time to cook dinner, breakfast, or tea. This heated up the van nicely. Again, because of carbon monoxide, I wouldn’t recommend ever sleeping with a propane burner going. Still, sometimes a quick warm-up is all you need before you crawl under the blankets for the night.

The secret to heating a conversion van when camping is to give up. Enjoy meal time warm-ups, but unless you have electric power, I don’t know of a safe way to heat a van all night. Instead, you can heat yourselves. Wear warm clothing. Bring more blankets than you think you’ll need. Prepare a thermos bottle full of hot coffee each night, so it will be waitng for you in the morning. You get to warm the van when you make it, and warm up yourselves drinking it for breakfast.

Advantages Of Conversion Van Camping

Traveling and camping in a conversion van costs less than in an RV. The initial cost is a lot less if you buy used, as we did, and the cost of driving it is substantialy less. We averaged 18 miles per gallon on our last cross-country trip. Most recreational vehicles are lucky to get half of that, and they’re very expensive to maintain.

Compared with tent camping, a van is much more comfortable. Even if you backpack, you are probably going to drive some kind of car to wherever you go. With a van, you can come inside if it starts to rain. If you’re backpacking a long way from home, you can save on motels on the drive to and from the trailhead.

Camping can be more comfortable in an RV, but not in all ways. It’s nice, for example, to park anywhere. We’ve taken naps in parking lots, and nobody was the wiser, thanks to tinted windows, curtains, and the inconspicuousness of a van. At a free campground in Florida we got the best spot, on a bank overlooking Lake Talquin, because our van was small enough to fit there, unlike most of the RVs.

It’s great to be able to drive anywhere. In the conversion van, camping wherever we are when it gets dark is no problem. Finally, some larger RVs drag a car around because the big rig just isn’t practical for daily driving. Our coversion van is a second home AND our primary vehicle for shopping or going to work. That’s flexibilty.

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RV camping can make for a great trip almost anywhere, but I think it is best in the west. In many areas, you can just drive into the desert, and stay free for up to two weeks. It’s true of most BLM (Bureau Of Land Management) and national forest lands, and many state forest lands too. You have to move every two weeks, but how far is open to interpretation, and mostly yours will be accepted.

Long Term RV Camping on BLM Land

RV camping, or “boondocking” is growing in popularity. In fact, the BLM has begun to establish special areas for longer stays, particularly in Arizona. A permit fee is around $140 now, but this allows you to stay up to six months, and you get pump stations, dumpsters and water. People are living in some of these areas. It’s cheaper than paying property taxes or rent for a lot to park on.

RV camping is common in Winter in Arizona. One of the largest gatherings of “boondockers” is in Quartzite. Several hundred thousand people spend at least part of the year in their RVs here. It’s near the California border, on Interstate 10, only 20 miles from the Colorado River. Surrounded by BLM lands, Quartzite is famous for gem shows, swap meets, and the multiplying of its population each winter.

If you ask around when you are in the desert southwest, you’ll find there are RV communities that form every winter. Some of these temporary towns like “Slab City” in California, have bookstores, grocery vendors, and other businesses run by RVers. Once summer returns, these boondock communities disappear, and reappear again the following winter.

Other RV Camping Opportunities

Just look around, and you’ll find “hidden” places where you can park your RV for a week or a month in the desert southwest. Some are inexpensive, other’s free. The Hot Well Dunes Recreation Area, for example, north of Bowie, Arizona, costs $3 per night, and has nice hotsprings and plenty of wildlife. An annual permit costs $30, but you’re limited to two weeks per month (permits are sold at the BLM office in Safford). You can stay outside the fenced area free, but then you don’t get the hotsprings and shaded picnic tables.

For information on other areas, contact the Bureau of Land Management. They can tell you what’s available under their jurisdiction. Also, the Woodall’s campground guide lists campgrounds that are free. Keep your eyes open for other RVs parked out in the desert or forest. Finally, ask around. Other RVers will give you the best information on RV camping.

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